I've modified it with a few add-ons: New stem, swept back cruiser handlebars, and a layback seat post with an extra-wide saddle for an upright, cruiser-type ride.
The original generic brand lettering on the frame was styled in an ugly ornate font so I covered it all up with pieces of Scotchlite white reflective sheets. I also added a few LED lights, new reflectors, a rear rack, baskets front and rear, two bells (Ding 1 and Ding 2), and a speedometer.
In spite of the aluminum frame, this bike is heavy. I'm talking 1960's, big-iron, beach cruiser heavy. Readers may know this already, but there's a trade-off with aluminum. Since it is not as strong as steel, frame tubes and parts have to be thicker. So aluminum bikes can wind up weighing more than steel bikes.
Because the bike is heavy, and I'm 180 pounds myself, I added some fat Michelin 700x47 tires. They add a bit more weight, but they tremendously improved the bike's handling and ride. I had to remove the stock fenders to accomodate them.
With tires, baskets, Hill Topper and SLA battery, tool kit, and all the other add-ons, the bike tips the scales at 68 pounds. (I weighed it by balancing it on its kickstand on a scale.)
I keep the tires inflated near max recommended pressure to minimize rolling resistance. When I do get this rig rolling, it has such momentum and heft that I feel like I'm in an Oldsmobile. Not such a bad thing.
I modified the Hilltopper SLA battery bag a little. Originally I intended to hang the battery pack from the top tube right side up, so I moved the switch a little toward the side of the bag to clear the tube. Eventually I decided it would work better if it hung upside down.
I sewed two D-rings in the battery bag's seam on the top -- which is now the bottom -- so I could add straps to anchor it to the down tube and stabilize it. I also wanted to keep it forward on the tube to put more weight on the front of the bike.
Even with the bag inverted, the new battery switch position worked out better for me. It's easy to reach, but it's tucked nicely under the battery so it doesn't accidentally get switched on or off.
Despite the weight of my rig, I still like the 250-watt motor. I wanted a system to flatten the hills around here, so I could have relaxing rides. I didn't want a full-out e-bike that does all the bicycling for me.
The Hill Topper will pull me along nicely on level ground, but I rarely use it for that. If the road is level and the pedaling is easy, I'm pedaling. I did test it though, and found that when the tires are inflated properly and the bike is oiled up well, I do get 15mph out of the Hill Topper on level ground without pedaling.
It's also very quiet, and the hub motor is small enough so it doesn't call attention to itself. I like that it's the same color as a standard hub, and not black and big as a dinner plate like some hub motors.
I also like that the top speed of the Hill Topper falls within the rules (top speed under 20mph) so my bike is still legally a bike.
One of the biggest challenges in biking in this neighborhood is getting out of our own 17-degree (approximately 30% grade), hundred-foot driveway (see photo). With the bike in low gear and the Hill Topper assisting, I'm able to pedal right up it. I actually have to lean forward while I'm doing it to keep the front tire from spinning -- the Hill Topper motor puts out that much torque.
I'm very happy with the system, and glad you guys make a conversion kit available in practically ready-to-run form like this.
And per your recommendations, I'm faithfully recharging the SLA battery pack after every ride, no matter how short.
