[Mike]

What do you recommend our standard production lengths be for the cable that runs from the motor to the battery pack (about 74 inches total right now), and also the cable from the Grip Switch to the battery pack (about 52 inches right now)?

Thanks,

Mike

[charlee]

Hi Mike
When I installed it the first time I thought they were a bit too long, but I just reinstalled it on my other bike and the lengths are perfect. So in my opinion keep it as it is.. it gives more options to pass the cables in different ways, or even in a backpack and to adapt it to different bicycles. It might be a good idea to offer a custom option for people that require it.
Charles

[induna]

I found the lengths to be fine for my install. You could always offer an optional extension for the main harness with one female and one male connector. The throttle cable has no connector, so that would be more difficult for the end user to extend unless you add one.

[LoveMyBike]

[quote="Mike"]What do you recommend our standard production lengths be for the cable that runs from the motor to the battery pack (about 74 inches total right now), and also the cable from the Grip Switch to the battery pack (about 52 inches right now)?



I have a semi-recumbent and when I ordered the Lithium Kit you will remember you had to splice both of the cables -the motor to battery pack and the throttle cable, so that they could accomadate the extra length of my bike. There are people out there with full recumbents that might need even longer lengths.

How bout making extension cables available so that there is an option for users who need longer cable connections?

This could be managed by making 2 or 3 foot long extension cables, although it might mean you'd have to put a couple of connectors on the throttle cable so an extension could be added in for this option.

[deardancer]

Here is a vote of support for the extension cables.

I just assisted a newbie with installing this kit and it BARELY had enough throttle cable. (step thru freame so no upper horizontal cross / top tube for routing) an extra foot would have been nice.

would also like to see a charger port for battery so cables dont have to be disconnected, but , I/almost anyone can do that without a lot of grief.

d

[Mike]

Hi Guys,

Great feedback, thanks a ton. Been out of the forum for a while! I too like the "optional extension" concept rather than changing the actual production length of the basic cable set.

One thing we could do is (after deciding on a length, say 2 feet) add a simple length of single cable that just extends from the battery pack plug and "replicates it" 24" farther out. So you'd have this one cable with both the Grip Switch and motor wires inside, with a chrome plug on each end that just attached to the battery pack and had a copy of the battery pack plug on it's other end.

The labor and hardware (two chrome plugs) might make this upgrade cable have a strangely high price (probably something in the $40 area) but if you really need it, then it would be worth it I suppose.

Thanks again for the ideas,

Mike

[etves]

would vote for longer cables it is much easier to deal with excess length than have a cable which you can not route the way you want because of length
The kit as supplied struggles with step through bikes which in Europe are common and the cables run under the frame usually .

[kaismdo]

I installed the kit on a step-thru frame with the battery pack located on a rear wheel rack. The cable length to the front wheel hub motor was, just, long enough for this. The cable length for the grip-switch was to short. I knew this before purchasing the kit so I was prepared to extend it.

With the grip-switch cable length a couple of feet longer it can be placed anywhere on the handlebar and still allow the front wheel to rotate from lock to lock positions.

Since the cable had to be extended an additional water resistant push-on/push-off switch w/ rubber boot was added in series with the grip-switch. This switch, mounted to the handlebar, is to purposely control/disable any accidental activations of the hub motor.

[paulm]

I like the extension idea. I have the battery under my seat now but would eventually like to put it in my pack on the back tire rack. Another foot or two would work out great, Would think it would be a cleaner install with just one cable going to the battery as opposed to two.

Paul

[robert1389]

Mike,

My accelerator switch (button) has many "dead" spots. Any suggestions ?

Bob

[Peterp]

Depends on your bike frame and frame design. Usually the best looking designs will have all your wires hidden internally in the frame up the handle bar stem, and then running down to your electric bicycle controller and battery pack etc. Naturally from your hand twist throttle you are going to have some redundant spots, usually this is caused by the actual controller and not the actual throttle.