Hi Guys,
Crazy times here. Sorry for not responding sooner. We've recently hired some new employees as well as switching to a new web and accounting system to handle all the great (and sometimes stressful!) demand for the kits. Immifish, sorry again for the delay.
So, this is a very good discussion, both for new and existing customers. We may soon create a "Hill Topper maintenance" forum so we can all discuss the down and dirty mechanics and chemistry, troubleshooting, and maybe even system mods without overwhelming new/researching customers just browsing the FAQ list...
The hardest thing for most batteries to do (especially small vehicle lithium batteries) is dump out a huge amount of power into your application in a short time. Many people get hung up on charging times or regimens, but the big thing to look out for is how much "strain" (discharge rate) you're putting on your battery.
For example, if you're stopped in the middle of a steep hill, and you turn on your motor, point the bike straight up the hill, and don't pedal at all, the battery would be needing to not only accelerate you up to speed but also keep you climbing (this is just an extreme example for the sake of discussion). This would put a huge power spike on the system. The battery is rated at a whopping 42A (5C) max discharge, and it will try as hard as it can to move the motor in whatever situation, but it will degrade the battery life quickly when hammered on like that.
The normal 'rated' power output for these batteries is the power required to cruise someone along at 15mph on flat ground with high pressure tires in no wind, with no pedaling. Now again that's just another textbook example for the sake of description. The thing IS called the Hill Topper right? Ok, so the point is if you operate the kit in ways that are as gentle as possible in terms of discharge required, and especially power spikes, you will get the longest possible battery life.
So, if you are sharing the load of pedaling up a hill, such that your battery is only needing to put out a load very similar to when it's just cruising you along the flat ground with NO pedaling, this will give you a "normal" battery life. If you pedal very little going up a steep hill and ask the battery to put out an "above normal" rate of power then it will, but the result will be a "shorter than normal" battery life. Likewise, if you can find techniques to "baby your battery" you could just as well have a "longer than normal" battery life.
Some basic techniques (some or all of which you might already be using):
-Ride your bike like you always have, engage the motor to regulate how tired you get, as opposed to engaging the motor to drive you around streets and trails like a motorcycle.
-Try what I call "long pulses" of 2-3 minute continuous motor engagements, interspersed with at least a 30-second "rest" where you're not engaging the motor. This both gives the battery a rest and also lets you cover ground and make time along your route without using any more of the stored energy. Even if you feel tired and you can't comfortably pedal as fast as you'd like to be going without the motor, keep pedaling only at that rate that you ARE comfortable instead of "coasting." Ok, without the motor, maybe you're speed will slowly be dropping, but you may cover another 500 feet of trail or road before before you get TOO slow, at which point you can engage the motor again to raise your average speed back up. Even one of the 10-mile SLA batteries used in this way can make for a very comfortable 15-mile ride, while still giving the fun psychological feeling of having "used the motor a lot." Yes, someone might argue that keeping the motor always spinning at the highest possible RPM and never slowing down is more 'efficient' but that's one of what I call the "Magic Frictionless Velodrome" concepts, and I just don't buy it in terms of practical day-to-day riding around town.
-If you are going to lean on your battery more heavily on one part of your route than another, try to help with your legs as much as possible during accelerations. Accelerating requires much more power over a short amount of time than maintaining a cruising speed, resulting in a spike in power required, and can make your battery work harder than at its 'healthy' rate.
Having said all that, as noted by a few of you, yes we do sell a ton of these things and there will always be this or that issue that crops up in one system or another, but that's why we have our warranty policies and stand firmly behind the product to keep you guys up and running.
I have some testing data that we did in the lab and I'll post it soon when I get a chance because it will make for really good discussion on this issue and will lead in to the charging questions that pop up as well.
Looking forward to building up the forum with y'all!
Mike