[cfloberg]

I was wondering if the front wheel can be detached from the wire. I'd like to able to convert back to my old front tire while retaining the wiring (cable ties etc.)

[Mike]

Hi Floberg,

Yes indeed. The wheel can be quickly detached from the rest of the electric bike kit by means of a weather sealed plug about 8 inches from the motor. In other words, the hub motor has a permanently connected 8'' cable coming out of it to a plug.

So, you can detach the hub motor wheel from the rest of the motor cable and other kit components and easily remove only the motor/wheel and drop your original wheel right back in its place, without having to move or touch the rest of the cable that you have attached to your bike frame.

It's a great feature, for exactly the reason you point out.

[harley.king]

What color of rim do you use brushed chrome or do you have black? Also are the rims you use 32 spoke or 36 spoke?

[Mike]

Yo Harley-

Yes, we actually do have black now for a limited time since our normal supplier if silver rims is out of stock for a few weeks. Usually all our rims are silver alloy color. Our electric bike kit motors, and our rims, are built for a full 36 spoke structure.

Cheers

[harley.king]

I just wanted to thank you for all of the information I recieved. I got the kit yesterday (mid evening) and put it on. Easy to install. Took it out for a test ride this morning, did great! Not as much get up and go as the 600 watt, but I have to say it was just what I needed.

I am also interested in possible getting your lithon battery, because of the lighter wieght. Would also like more range.

Do you recomend the 10-mile or the 20-mile? Also do you have a wieght information and size of both?

[Mike]

Hi Harley,

Thanks so much for the excellent feedback! It's great to hear you had a good experience installing the electric bike kit. By the way, if you do get any pictures, we and all the other members would love to see them, so feel free to start a 'new topic' and post them at: http://www.cleanrepublic.freeforums.org/your-electric-bike-stories-hacks-f15.html. We really believe we're making big positive changes in our environment and our economy by supporting this type of product, and the more stories people share with each other, the more savvy we can all get at keeping a good standard of living and reducing our energy consumption at the same time. "They" say it can't be done!

I recommend you look at the 20-mile lithium battery. The 10-miler is just a concept at this point and even if we do develop it, it's going to be maybe another 12 months. The 20-mile rated lithium battery we are launching in the next month or so (from the time of this posting) is about 3x5x7'' (overall a bit smaller than our SLA pack) and about 5 lbs. All told it's about half the weight and twice the range as the SLA pack. For more discussion on the 20-mile lithium pack, please read and post in the thread at: http://www.cleanrepublic.freeforums.org/update-lithium-batteries-do-you-sell-them-soon-t12.html

Cheers,

Mike

[cliffordbigler]

I have been thinking about getting the 26" Hill Topper. I am interested to learn about the tire and tube that comes on the wheel. I like a tire that has a conservative street tread and can run at higher pressure in the 50-65 psi range, and a tube that is a heavy duty thicker thorn resistant type. Tell me about the tire and tube that comes in the kit. What kind of tread design does the tire have? Are they regular tires and tubes that any one can can take off the rim for flat repairs? What is the maximum pressure rating on the tire, and is the tube anything special like thorn resistant?

[Mike]

Hi Cliff,

Yes, we do have good-quality semi-smooth tires on the Hill Toppers for just the reasons you mention.

It's good you bring this up, as tire pressure and tread is a huge issue effecting the range and 'efficiency' of bike riding, and therefore electric systems as well. I'll break it down for other readers of the post and then answer the specifics of your question.

Basically, a higher pressure or 'well pumped up' tire will 'squish out' less than a 'not pumped up enough' tire, where the tire meets the ground. The less the tire squishes and deforms where it meets the ground, the smaller the amount of rubber is that touches the ground. This reduces the friction between the bike and the ground. Great decreases in the energy required to move your bike forward, be it energy from your legs or an electric motor, can be made just by making sure your tires are pumped up. Tire tread is important for the same reason. Big independent knobs of rubber are good for grabbing loose dirt and mud but aren't needed to increase control on pavement (most urban environments) and just increase the amount of rubber touching the road and generally increase road friction and lower efficiency.

For these reasons we've chosen an efficient 'city tire' tread for the Hill Topper tires that is smooth overall, with only semi-relieved treads to increase control in the rain or slightly gravely spots you might cross in roads or sidewalks. We also have gone with a slightly thinner tire (1.5-1.75) than regular mountain bike tires. This also increases efficiency. We recommend the 26'' tires be inflated to 40-50psi.

The tube and tire that come on the Hill Topper are very good quality. However, if you'd like additional features like thorn-resistant designs or 'run flat' or 'self sealing gel' tubes and tires you can easily get the ones you prefer online or at your local bike shop and just install them on your Hill Topper rim. Changing the tube and/or tire on your Hill Topper wheel will in no way damage the kit, so you have quite a few options for customization.

Great questions. Thanks a lot,

Mike

[CraigHusker]

I am searching for an electric power assist for my sons recumbent trike (20" wheels). My son has cerebral palsy and I had a company out of Canada build him a trike that he can peddle (Freedom Concepts). However, he averages about 5 miles an hour. He can travel faster but it is difficult to maintain higher speeds on longer rides on such a heavy trike. He loves to ride but it is difficult for his friends and siblings to ride with him since they travel faster. Changing the gears is becoming more difficult than I thought it would be. I am looking at other types of recumbent trikes now since he has grown to about 5 feet 8" tall. I really like your product concept. Do you plan on making a 20" wheel any time in the near future? Searching for a way to keep him enjoying riding since it is one of his primary methods of maintaining physical activity.
Thanks.
CraigHusker

[martin75gk]

I need advice on what kind of spokes to buy for my new E-bike (I'm using the SLA Pro Pack). I'm already set to convert my front wheel and I'm obviously going to figure out the correct length for the spokes later. I'm not sure if the 1.8 mm spokes will work (those are the ones that are on my bike right now and they don't seem strong enough for a hub that heavy)... I'm set on getting DT spokes but should I get DT Champion 14 gauge (2 mm) for strength or the DT Competition double-butted ones or should I get 13 gauge spokes? I have no idea... Which ones would be best? I have 27" rims by the way...

[martin75gk]

Working on bike wheels with an electric motor hub is quite new to me and I'm not sure what the best spoke lacing pattern is. So, what is the best spoke lacing pattern for the Hill Topper? I understand that the 3-cross pattern is vry strong and that's what I'm planning on using for my Pro Pack... but on the full kits I noticed that the spokes are laced in the 2-cross pattern... Which is the best/strongest lacing pattern?

[Mike]

Hi Craig,

We do offer our "ProPack" product for people who need a wheel size that we don't offer in our standard inventory. One thing you can do is buy the ProPack and then have a local bike shop near you build up a 20" wheel around the hub motor that's included in the kit. The ProPack includes all the other components you need to add electric power to your bike/trike, just without the built-up wheel (tube, tire, rim). Check out the ProPack at: http://cleanrepublic.com/clean_republic ... _pack.html

Carl's right in that the smaller wheel would give the kit a lower speed (10-12mph) but that could dramatically increase your son's average speed over the whole route/ride since when he's tired or going up hill this speed may be down around 1-2mph just chugging along.

It's a really great project you're working on. I hope we can help out!

Mike

[Mike]

Hi Martin,

Good question. I'd recommend the 2-cross pattern that you see in our pictures as you noticed. The fat shape of the hub itself gives extra leverage and rigidity to the wheel structure, so getting three crosses in there is a bit overkill I'd say.

Good question,

Mike

[Mike]

Hi Martin,

This is a great question. There are 10,000 answers to it if you've never built a wheel before, but I'd say the most important thing in terms of safety is that you use the strongest spokes you can find. DT 14G should be good enough, but 13G would be better if you can find them.

Cheers,

Mike

[WhiteTiger]

I've been through all the FAQs and hope I haven't missed this already being answered somewhere else.

I notice that there are three specific wheel/tire size ranges to choose from in ordering either the full kit or or pro pack. Since the hub motor itself lists no such choice option, I'm assuming that the difference isn't in the motor itself or the planetaries, which seems to leave the controller as the other variable?

Since I'm in the process of firming up variables for a special niche trike design, I'd like to ask if the difference is indeed in the controller, and what controller parameters vary with the size application if I'm assuming correctly.

Thanks,
Tiger (yeah, stupid as it is, that's my name)

[Beavis]

I would really like to save the $261 or whatever it is by buying the Lithium Pro Pack, but I have little mechanical experience. I am intelligent and handy enough to learn installation and willing to do so provided I have instructions, but am also concerned I could get in over my head.

Would you guys tell me what is involved in "building up my own wheel" with the Pro Pack? I understand I can buy the appropriate spokes from you. Are they cut to the correct size? What else has to be done to attach the spokes to my wheel and fit the motor in the center?

I know someone who claims to know how to do this, but I don't know this person very well. It's from a recommendation from a friend who claims the guy does good work. It seems to be a "backyard operation", and he says he can lace up the spokes on an electric bike kit for $30. This obviously presents the opportunity for huge savings, but at a risk. If he finds that he can't do it, I'm up a creek.

The difference in cost between the Lithium Pro Pack and the full Lithium kit is huge. I'd like to capitalize on this savings because I am a poor college student, but also don't want to screw myself.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

[martin75gk]

If you don't know how to lace a wheel around a hub, I wouldn't risk it. If you really want to do it yourself, I recommend studying wheel lacing from the internet and/or asking more questions on this forum. If your wheel size is one of the sizes mentioned in the spoke options for the Pro Pack, you have a good start. One of the hardest parts for me was to make the measurements to find the spoke length that would fit 27" wheels.
In my opinion, I would spend the extra $30 to get your wheels laced from someone who has experience in that field rather than doing it yourself. $30 is a good price for wheel lacing. The bike shops around my area charge $80 to $100...

[Beavis]

Yeah, I have no problem paying him $30. That's peanuts. I just want to make sure HE knows what he is doing.

I can't believe there is such a large price difference between the pro pack and the regular lithium kit. $261 for tire, tube, and rim plus installation of motor seems steep. It's highly likely, though, that I have no idea what I am talking about.

[WhiteTiger]

If this is strictly a cash consideration, Why not buy the $399 full standard kit and augment the range with $50-100 worth of supplemental SLA batteries? That can give you the same range as the Lithium kit, and a ready to go, warranteed complete wheel assembly.

Just a thought.


Tiger

[Beavis]

Well, that adds extra weight and bulk to the bike. My bike is aluminum and pretty light for a large-framed mountainbike, and I'd like to keep it as close to its original "level of agility" as possible. I also want the battery pack to be fairly discreet, and two SLA packs makes the electric-look of the bike fairly obvious.

[Beavis]

I did some research on building a wheel and found a zillion videos on it on YouTube - some of course better than others. Arguably entertaining narration aside, the instruction in this video is fairly straightforward and clear, is cut up in steps and involves truing the wheel once the spokes are put in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTb3x5VO ... re=related

I've watched two of these videos and think that if I bought a truing wrench, could find a truing wheel, and ordered the correct spokes (already cut to the correct size) from Clean Republic, I'd be able to manage the whole thing, but I wouldn't trust myself to get it perfect the first time I tried it, so I think I'm just going to pay someone to do it.

That being said, I think I've answered my own questions about what route to take with the purchase (Lithium Pro + have someone experienced install the motor). If you guys have anything to add that you think I should consider, please do.

[martin75gk]

It's all up to you Beavis... The motor installation wasn't meant to be hard though. All you do is place it in between the forks and tighten the nut tight enough where the axle can't possibly move, but not too much where the thread can rip.

[Beavis]

Um, what? The pro pack requires you to lace the spokes and true the wheel. That's what this whole discussion has been about. Did I miss something?

[martin75gk]

Beavis, you said "install the motor"... I misunderstood you, but that is misleading. I was also confused about you randomly talking about the motor being installed whereas this whole discussion has been about spokes... Anyway, go on and build your kit. It should be a lot of fun...

[Beavis]

thanks!

[Mike]

haha. WhiteTiger. Well, way to make the best of the name with the forum uderID's.

The difference in our wheel motors is actually the electrical windings inside the motor. The reason we don't have three motor variations listed on the motor product page is simply that we're doing a lot of website work right now and don't have that feature activated there. It's a great question.

Our controllers and the physical gears are actually all the same. What makes the difference is the windings inside the motors to optimize them for the RPMs needed to cruise at 15mph.

Mike

[WhiteTiger]

Thanks for the reply, it helps me a lot in determining the suitability of the hill topper for the specific app I have on the drawing board. Flux matching is actually the best all round for my target niche.


Tiger

[elcaro]

I purchase the "Standard SLA Pro Pack Electric Bike Kit".

I ordered spokes [229mm 13G 36 spokes] to lace the motor hub to my existing front wheel.

My question is: Should I use the Radial or 3 Spoke pattern?

My understanding is that if you're using shorter spokes on the front wheel then Radial pattern is vertically stiffer than a 'crossed' pattern and they can also be adjusted to be laterally stiffer too.

Would 'radial' lacing be a benefit over '3 spoke' lacing pattern?

Any suggestions about how you handled your lacing from your 'pro kit' would be a great help for me.

Thanks in advance,

[frank]

all your questions about wheel spoking have already been answered by Carl in his Carl's Custom e-Bike forum..it appears to me that there are way too many people getting into the pro-pack kit then not knowing where to start.. while the p-p is cheaper to buy it proves over time to be a bad choice for non-mechanics and people with absolutely no mechanical aptitude whatsoever to be doing anything like wheel building..so whatever small money you save will definetely cost you way more to get the wheel built by a wheel pro at a bike shop..maybe it is time for mike to stop selling the pro-kit to people who have no clue where to start..as I have seen too many bike riders with missing front teeth..Carl said it straight in his forum..don't start something that you have no idea about..read it all up before buying anything..caveat emptor as they say..

[elcaro]

Hi Frank,

Thanks for your reply to my question.

Can you supply the link to Carl's Custom e-Bike forum, if possible.

I would really welcome an opportunity to read more about his or anyone's experience (mechanics or non-mechanics) regarding lacing, spokes and patterns.

There's much information out there to digest. The more information I can read the more knowledge I can have which will give me a strong understanding about using this product.

Thank you.

[elcaro]

Frank,

I was able to find Carl's Custom e-Bike forum link and found some very valuable information.

Thanks for the information, greatly appreciated.

elcaro

[km4hr]

I was a little perplexed when I recieved my Pro kit. Before it arrived I had read instructions on the web explaining how to install spokes in (ie "build") a wheel. I had even watched it on Youtube. However, due to the large diameter of the Hilltopper hub the standard instructions didn't seem to apply. So I just looked at the picture on the Clean Republic web site. There was enough detail that I could see how to install the spokes. Note that you can click on the picture to make it bigger.

Here's alink to the picture:
http://cleanrepublic.com/images/New-Bag-Electric-Bike-Kit-Inset-Big.jpg

After installing the spokes I took the wheel to a bike shop to have it properly adjusted. I was pleased when the bike mechanic looked at the wheel and said, "looks like you laced it exactly right!". He charged me $18. He said he would have charged $30 if I had just brought him the parts (hub, rim, and spokes). Had I known that up front I might have just let him do the whole thing. Be prepared for a sales pitch however. He'll explain how his rims a better than yours, for example.

This is the only wheel I've ever "built". Oh yes, be sure to use the correct terminology if you go to a bike shop. It helps to create the illusion that you know what you're talking about.

[elcaro]

Nice job km4hr.

It's good that you tried on your own to learn and I'm glad the mechanic said you laced it exactly right! Good for you. That's using your mind.

I realize that to lace & true a wheel must be done exactly right especially when lacing an electric motor to the hub and rim and taking your wheel to a mechanic was a smart move to check and be safe.

There are some good post on this forum especially from Carl. Please look up his post you can receive excellent information from him. He's an engineer and from what I've read from his posts; he knows his stuff!

Enjoy you electric bike, I know you will have great times. I do everyday I ride mine.

elcaro

[drunkrussian]

Hello,

I gave up my car about a year ago, but moved to the north from the south 4 months ago, and now winter is going to be a reality. I'm try to assemble a good winter bike but I have a few questions.

Will the Hill Topper be ok on a fork that uses a quick release?

Also, will the wheel accept a 700x32 tire? I know the bike will have the clearence, but i'm still don't fully understand wheel and tire size.

Thanks.

[Knucklesup]

Thats awesome that you gave up your car! I am trying to do that as we speak, but having my car for some things are very nice. I live in Michigan, and we get some of the most crazy weather shifts you will ever see...

Ask for your quick-release issue. The Hill Topper kit takes this feature away, mainly because the front wheel will be creating torque on the fork drop outs, so having a quick release system will not create enough pressure to hold the axle from spinning out of the drop outs. So basically the quick release will be replaced with closed end nuts that you have to use a wrench to tighten. This isn't all bad because it adds extra security from thieves (not as easy to take off with out someone noticing).

If you get the Hill Topper kit then it comes with a tire pre-assembled with it. This tire is best used for dry to rainy days, but will not work all that well in the snow (I would recommend a knobby tire for snow). You are more than able to put your tire on it. I wouldn't go past a 42 width though. So your 700C 32 will fit perfectly on it.

Also having a front wheel assist system for the snow is absolutely amazing because you have all-wheel drive. Hence the reason why I bought this system.

Happy riding.

[martin75gk]

Ya keep those anti-turn washers in there. You could have a quick release (which wouldn't be as safe as the regular nuts), but the HT motor axle isn't built for a quick release system...

[frank]

just when we all thought you came to your senses and stopped your incessant stupid postings..you rear your ugly head again..isn't your fifth grader school giving you enough homework to keep you busy?????????..quite apart from the fact that all e-motors have solid motor shafts which would prevent ANY kind of Q/R spindle mechanism from being used..you then told knsp to make sure to use the 'anti turn washers'..wow..like someone would actually be dumber than you to leave them out!!!..take whitetigers advice and kill all your free time by reading up as much as possible in your public library..who knows..maybe after a few years you will actually begin to develop some common sense..in the meantime just shut up and stop your incredibly stupid and moronic postings..

[martin75gk]

Only if you do...

[sal]

Thanks for all the information provided in this forum. I think I've read most of what's here. One thing I haven't been able to find though is the specific manufacturer and model of the rim used in the "standard" 700c conversion kit. I may have read somewhere that it's an Alex rim but don't recall seeing the model name.

I have built several wheels in my time and actually enjoy wheelbuilding. So, in spite of the views and warnings expressed - justifiably - by some members in this forum, I DO plan to order the pro kit and build my own 700c wheel around the hub motor.

Now, if I know which specific rim you use in your kit - that for which the 261mm spokes are intended - I'll be able to use that rim or an alternative 700c rim that VERY CLOSELY matches the manufacturer's stated effective rim diameter (ERD) of that rim. For anyone considering building your own wheel, be aware that ERDs vary from one 700c rim to another - even within a given manufacturer's line - by as much as 20mm (same applies for 26" or any other size rim as well). This is generally attributable to the wide variety of different rim types being produced (single-wall vs. double-wall, aero vs. non-aero, etc.).

Anyway, I don't mean to sound preachy. This is something experienced wheelbuilders know and others need to be aware of.

By the way, I'm using the spokes from CR because $6.00 is a great price for 36 spokes with nipples.

Thanks in advance for your answer to this question.

[paul]

i dont know what they spec, but i can tell you that i ordered the pro kit with the 700c spokes cr supplies, and they fit perfectly on my rim. All it says on the rim is "alex rims dc 25". hope that helps.

[sal]

Paul - thanks for the info. I can't find the dc25 on the Alex website but a google search shows that it is being used by several manufacturers on current production bikes (Jamis, et al). I found a phone no. on the CR blog and called and spoke to a guy named Mike (the owner?). He was very helpful. According to Mike, CR uses the Alex 101 rim in their 700c kits. He understood exactly what I am trying to accomplish - using the same or nearly same ERD rim as CR uses in order to be able to build my own wheel using CR-supplied spokes. Thanks again, Paul & Mike.

[frank]

So let's see now sal..you've read all that's out there in the forum..all the 'justifiable' warnings as you put it..and you still are going to get the Pro-Pack..just so you can 'do your own wheel'..and not knowing where to start with the correct wheel..like WOW!!!..isn't that a wake up call for you..helloooow??..we don't need to know anything about your Pro-Pack escapades in the forum..you may have 'built a bike wheel' which have no emf to worry about..building an e-bike wheel is a whole different thing..people posting on the forum should say something intelligent that they have already done..not dumb and dumber things like not knowing where to start..you are exactly the type of no-brainer and danger that Carl has been warning people about..if you don't know how to swim..stay the heck away from the deep end..better yet..stay away from the water..in this case the Pro-Pack..

[WhiteTiger]

Better yet, if you can't recognise experience, qualifications and background, stay off the post button and spare everyone the poorly informed rantings. The "my guru says" sniping contributes nothing.


Tiger

[jim]

I have been reading all the forum postings and there is no question as to who knows all there is to know about
e-bikes - and that's Carl. As an engineer myself I have yet to see or read of any mistake that he posted. I also verify everything in his forum and all of it is correct and 100% acurate. There is a reason why he does not involve himself with everything that's posted anymore - most of the posts are too dumb to merit any response and waste his time. First off this whole Pro-Pack business is a no-brainer as Frank put it. Why people continue to get into it despite the warnings by CR that it's for professional shops/qualified mechanics is totally beyond comprehension and common sense. Now if you read sal's post above again you will see the trouble he had in not even knowing what type of wheel to use. And if you read Carl's Custom e-Bikes at all you will read all about the dangers of collapsing and disintegrating wheels when they are not built right - which can easily send you to the hospital ER. So the bottom line is: While you read the forum 99% is utter nonsense posted by people that know nothing about anything but just rant about things because it makes them feel important. That leaves 1% intelligent posts like Carl's and Mike at CR who really know their stuff and we should all thank them for that. Perhaps you can't recognise Carl's professionalism as an engineer by acting like a wannabe yourself. As for the Pro-Pack my advice would be exactly as Carl's - stay away from the PP if you are not qualified! Asking for help on the forum means: YOU ARE NOT QUALIFIED - PERIOD. Doing dumb things and ending up in the hospital is as dumb as it gets. Jim.

[WhiteTiger]

Sal didn't ask for help, he asked about specific component information that was called for in order to avoid dangerous problems with the pro-pack and the attractively priced spokes available with it. Notice that in Sal's last post before the vitriolic rant by frank, Mike as a CR principal had no problem recognising the purpose of the information Sal requested or with supplying it. Why, after the matter was settled and the information posted, the thread continues along these lines of elitist browbeating is rather baffling.

I'm a retired consulting engineer myself and I'll attest that the information available on the CR website (and in these forums)is primarily tailored to the general public, leaving large unfilled information gaps. While joe average is the greatest part of the CR target market there actually are some qualified individuals scouring these forums for information, so the simple posing of a question here is far from a prima facie proof of disqualification.


Tiger

[alex]

I notice your all too frequent and confrontational posts and your incessant butting into other peoples posts when they write and reply in a certain way. Just so you understand the English language - a word - a statement - a sentence - can be read and interpreted many different ways depending on your English fluency and state of mind when you read it. Frank's response to sal was humorous and short - ie to the point - which is far from the 'vitriolic rant' 'elitist browbeating' and 'guru sniping' as 'eloquently' misinterpreted and 'ranted' by you.

Since the question was already answered Frank's and Jim's inerjection was a third / fourth party concern with safety issues. That makes you a way after the fact fifth party meddler. Since you state to being a retired 'engineer'(?) perhaps you have way too much time on your hands to be poking your nose into others posts. If you are a real 'engineer' let's hear about your 'engineering accomplishments' - ie. what have you designed engineered and built yourself that we should know about? My inkling is that you don't even ride a bike or own an e-bike since you never mention it and that makes you a non - sequitur. BTW this word one-ups your 'prima facie' - no?

[howardj]

I've been a pro wrench for 10+ years and have been checking into Clean Republic and this forum for a week or so now. We're starting to get customer inquiries at the shop about electric assist bikes and we're thinking of getting into the game slowly with our own builds.

Anyway, there are 3 main component variables in any wheel build - the hub, the rim and the spokes. Usually, you choose your hub and rim and then spec spokes to work with the hub and rim. If, in sal's case, you're getting your hub and spokes first, then you want to make sure you can get a rim that will work with those components. His approach is correct and logical. You guys that either don't know how or are scared to build a wheel ought to just keep quiet. You're only showing your ignorance and ineptitude and you're not contributing anything useful here.

[sam]

Its good to hear that you are a 10 year pro wrench who is getting into the e-bike game slowly with your builds. The more professionals we have the better for the overall e-bike business - and that's great. Your second paragraph begs some more questions. As a bike shop pro would you sell a bike without wheels just because somebody wants to build their own? Then to have them bug you forever and ever because they have no clue where to start and how to even do it? Why not have the public buy bits and pieces of your bikes - and really get into a hornets nest? I seriously doubt that you as a pro should advise anyone to go this route - after all your very livelyhood depends on what you know and how to do it - right? CR makes it clear that its PP is for professional shops and experienced mechanics. Ignoring this basic fact results in inept and dumb forum posts that we read.

[bernie.hills@shaw.ca]

PRE-BUILT HILL TOPPER KIT OR DIY? Using the complete wheel provided in the Hill Topper Kit is the best and easiest solution for most people. The higher cost from Clean Republic for the complete wheel in the kit rather than just the hub motor (ProPack) is a bargain compared to getting a professional bicycle mechanic to build you a custom wheel. However, if you want the same rim as on the rear of your bicycle, then you need to lace the Hill Topper motor (ProPack) into a matching rim. Remember, the Hill Topper hub motor (and most electric hub motors) are 36-hole. Many new bicycles have 32-hole rims (or 24-hole, or something else), SO, before you order the hub motor alone without the rim (ProPack), check to see what rims are available to match the one on the rear, and be sure you're buying a 36-hole rim.

WHEELS MATTER The most important component on your bicycle is the wheel; and for safety's sake, especially the front wheel. Properly designed and built, it should give many miles of trouble free service. There are some excellent resources available that explain how to lace, true and pre-stress (the spokes) for best durability and performance. If you've never built a wheel before, it helps to have a bicycle shop nearby that you can fall back on if you run into problems.

WHEEL DETAILS An experienced wheel builder considers the application, overall weight, and performance parameters when choosing components and designing a wheel. A professionally hand built wheel will out perform a factory built wheel for trueness over time, stength, durability, and longevity.

TECHNICAL CONSIDERATIONS If you struggling with lacing pattern, spoke length, spoke guage, whether to use a wheel truing stand and dishing gauge, then consider buying the Clean Republic kit - complete hub motor, spokes, rim, tire and tube - from Clean Republic. They wisely use oversize 13-gauge spokes (2.3mm) rather than the commonly available 14-guage (2.0mm) spokes stocked by bicycle shops, to better handle bigger loads from a wide range of riders. The thicker spokes they use add a very small amount of weight (insignificant considering the total weight of the bicycle PLUS rider) and you get a much stronger wheel. If you still must have a custom wheel, think about paying a professional bicycle mechanic to do it right. This is especially true if you want to use an existing rim (from your bicycle) that is not new, since it will probably be more difficult to true. If your front wheel fails while you're riding along, the consequences can be (disastrous) a crash.

Bernie

(SEE Carls' Excellent Info on RADIAL SPOKES and OTHER PATTERNS post528.html?hilit=2%20cross#p528)

[Chris Clean Republic]

Hey thanks Bernie, for the really helpful info here!

[Chris Clean Republic]

merged topic

[ayavelow]

I'm trying to see how much adjustment of my brakes I'm going to have to do if I get a new wheel...
What's the dimension of the rim on the wheel you send?

[Chris Clean Republic]

Good question. We use an Alexrims 101 aluminum rim. It is exactly 1" thick and is a very standard rim type. I hope this helps. Do you need any other measurements?

[Sushil]

Hi,
First the facts:
I've bent my Hilltopper Alexrim101 wheel while trying to use it on a homebrew project (building a tricycle from scratch).
After reading through the forums and googleing, here's what I've done and plan to do
1. I've already ordered and obtained new spokes for a 26" rim from clean republic.
2. I'd like to buy a new rim
3. I'd like to give rim, spokes, and hub motor to a local bike shop to build me a new wheel.
It seems clear I should get a professional to do the wheel build and consulting the local bike shop I learned that I have to be careful about effective rim diameter versus rim diameter when buying a rim. The bent Alex rims on my bike are the X101 559x20 with an ERD of 543.2mm. Now, I want to get Alex Adventurer rims which look double walled

The Question:
Here's an amazon.com link:
http://www.amazon.com/Alex-Adventurer-H ... 668&sr=8-8

The ERD is listed as 543mm, their ISO diameter is 559
Will this rim work for the cleanrepublic 26" spokes?

Regards
-Sushil
I would also be happy to just order another rim from cleanrepublic but it doesn't look like you sell them?

[Chris Clean Republic]

Good question Sushil,

From what I can tell, the spokes should work. The measurements are nearly identical, so the spokes should fit. I would go ahead and get the rim and have your bike ship build this out for you. Thanks.

[leroy]

I am interested in converting my mountain bike for off road use. Will this rim be able to handle off-road use?

[Chris Clean Republic]

Hi Leroy,

The wheel is designed to handle some light off road conditions. Just as long as your not going off 5 foot drops onto solid rock, you should be fine. Thanks.